31st December 1769

[Off North End of New Zealand]
Fresh gales at South-West and South-West by South accompanied by a large Sea from the same Quarter. At 1 p.m. Tack'd and Stood to the North-West until 8, then stood to the South-East. At this time the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by West, distant 11 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen North by East. At Midnight wore and Stood to the North-West until 4 a.m., then wore and Stood to the South-East; at Noon our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 42 minutes South. The land of Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-East by North distant about 5 Leagues.

Joseph Banks Journal
Wind as yesterday, sea something abated: stood in for the Land which we had not now seen for some time: dared not venture very near as the wind was right on shore, it appeard very sandy and barren.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
The wind blowing from the S. W. we did not approach the shore, but, in the afternoon, we saw the land very plain, and discovered a mountain which we had seen on the other side of the land; we called it Mount Camel, from its likeness to that animal: to the north of which it appears very sandy and barren, having only here and there a green plat. The same neck of land we saw on the other side, which reaches to Cape Maria Van Diemen, and this tends to the S. E.

30th December 1769

[Off North End of New Zealand]
Winds at South-West. P.M., hard Gales with some Squalls attended with rain. A.M., more moderate and fair. At 8 p.m. wore and stood to the North-West until 5 a.m., then wore and stood to the South-East and being pretty moderate we set the Topsails close Reef'd, but the South-West Sea runs so high that the Ship goes Bodily to leeward. At 6 saw the land bearing North-East distant about 6 Leagues which we judge to be the same as Tasman calls Cape Maria Van Dieman; at Noon it bore North-North-East 1/2 East and we could see the land extend to the East and Southward as far as South-East by East. Our Latitude by observation 34 degrees 50 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal
Blew very fresh still tho the heart of the Gale seemd to be broke: we have been driven much to the Northward so that today we once more passd in sight of Cape Maria and the 3 Kings.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 30th, we discovered land to leeward of us, which we took for Cape Maria Van Diemen; but as the wind continued still very boisterous, and the sea ran very high, we did not venture to approach near it; we therefore tacked about, and stood to the N. W. intending to stand backwards and forwards till the weather should be more moderate. In the evening, we discovered the island of the Three Kings, on our lee-bow, and tacked about, without attempting to weather it.

28th - 29th December 1769

[Off North End of New Zealand]
The Gale continued without the least intermission until 2 a.m., when the wind fell a little and began to veer to the Southward and to the South-West where it fixed at 4, and we made Sail and steer'd East in for the Land under the Foresail and Mainsail, but was soon obliged to take in the latter as it began to blow very hard and increased in such a manner that by 8 o'Clock it was a meer Hurricane attended with rain and the Sea run prodidgious high. At this time we wore the Ship, hauld up the Topsail, and brought her too with her head to the North-West under a Reefed Mainsail, but this was scarcely done before the Main Tack gave way and we were glad to take in the Mainsail and lay too under the Mizen staysail and Ballanced Mizen, after which we reefd the Foresail and furl'd both it and the Mainsail. At Noon the Gale was a little abated, but had still heavy squalls attended with rain. Our Course made good to-day is North, a little Easterly, 29 miles; Latitude in per Account 34 degrees 50 minutes South; Longitude in 188 degrees 27 minutes West; the 3 Kings North 41 East; distant 52 Miles.

29th. Winds at South-West and South-West by West. A very hard Gale with Squalls but mostly fair weather. At 7 p.m. wore and lay on the other Tack. At 6 a.m. loosed the Reef out of the Foresail and Set it and the Reefd Mainsail. At 11 unbent both Foresail and Mainsail to repair, and bent others and made Sail under them. At Noon Latitude observed 34 degrees 45 minutes South. Course and distance saild since yesterday East by North 29 miles.

Joseph Banks Journal
Wind now SW right on shore but thank god we have so good an offing that we are in not the least danger. All our sea people said that they never before were in so hard a summers Gale.

29th Wind more moderate but still blows prodigiously fresh with a monstrous sea. No such summer Gales as this to the Norward sayd our Captn.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 28th, the wind veered about to the S.W. and blew from that quarter fiercer than it had done the day before from the east; the sea also ran very high, and we brought to under a balanced mizen, and a mizen stay-fail.

26th - 27th December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
Moderate breezes, Easterly and hazey weather; standing to the Southward close upon a wind. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 188 degrees 20 minutes West. The island of the 3 Kings North 26 degrees West, distant 22 Leagues. In this situation had no land in sight, and yet by observation we are in the Latitude of the Bay of Islands, and by my reckoning but 30 Leagues to the Westward of the North Cape, from whence it appears that the Northern part of this land must be very narrow, otherwise we must have seen some part of the West side of it.

27th. Winds at East. P.M., a fresh Gale, with which we stood to the Southward until 12 at Night, then Tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At 4 a.m. the wind began to freshen, and increased in such a manner that at 9 we were obliged to bring the Ship too under her Mainsail, it blowing at this time excessive hard with heavy Squalls attended with rain, and at the same time thick hazey weather. Course made good since Yesterday at Noon South-South-West 1/2 West, distance 11 Miles. Latitude in 35 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude in 188 degrees 29 minutes West. The Island of the 3 Kings, North 27 degrees East, distant 77 Miles.

Joseph Banks Journal
This morn all heads achd with yesterdays debauch. Wind has been Easterly these 3 or 4 days so we have not got at all nearer the Island than we were.

27th. Blows very hard a[t] SE so that we were again drove off the Land, not much displeasd as we all rejoicd much that it was not an on shore wind.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 27th, in the morning, it blew very hard from the east, all day, accompanied with, heavy showers of rain, and we brought the ship to under a reef main-fail.

Christmas Day 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
A Gentle breeze at South-East, the weather a little hazey. P.M., stood to the South-West. At 4 the land above mentioned bore South-East by South, distant 4 Leagues. It proves to be a small Island, which we take to be the 3 Kings discover'd by Tasman; there are several Smaller Islands or Rocks lying off the South-West end and one at the North-East end. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 187 degrees 45 minutes West and West 14 degrees North, 14 or 15 Leagues from the North Cape. At Midnight Tack'd and stood to the North-East until 6 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the Southward. At Noon the Island of the 3 Kings bore East 8 degrees North, distant 5 or 6 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 12 minutes South, Longitude in 188 degrees 5 minutes West; variation per Azimuth taken this morning 11 degrees 25 minutes East.

Joseph Banks Journal
Christmas day: Our Goose pye was eat with great approbation and in the Evening all hands were as Drunk as our forefathers used to be upon the like occasion.

24th December 1769














[Three Kings Islands]

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
Light Airs next to a Calm all this 24 Hours. At 7 p.m. saw the land from the Mast head bearing South 1/2 East; at 11 a.m. saw it again bearing South-South-East, distant 8 Leagues. At Noon Latitude observed 33 degrees 48 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal
Land in sight, an Island or rather several small ones most probably 3 Kings, so that it was conjecturd that we had Passd the Cape which had so long troubled us. Calm most of the Day: myself in a boat shooting in which I had good success, killing cheifly several Gannets or Solan Geese so like Europaean ones that they are hardly distinguishable from them. As it was the humour of the ship to keep Christmas in the old fashiond way it was resolvd of them to make a Goose pye for tomorrows dinner.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 24th, after having beat about for three days, we discovered land, which we supposed was the island of the Three Kings, though we could not bring it to appear any thing like the described figure of that island in Dalrymple's Book, having nothing of that broken appearance which that figure exhibits, forming one large clump of land, rather flat at the top, with eleven small rocks lying in a row from it. It being calm, Mr. Banks went out in the small boat; and we saw some birds so much like our island geese; that we could not have distinguished the difference. We caught, several of them, made them into a pye, and they tasted excellently.

23rd December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
Gentle breezes between the South by West and South-West, and Clear settled weather, with a swell from the South-West. Course and distance sailed since Yesterday at Noon is South 60 degrees East, 30 Miles. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South. North Cape South 36 minutes East, distant 27 Leagues.

22nd December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
A moderate Gale at South by West and South-South-West and Cloudy weather. At 8 a.m. got up Top Gallant Yards and set the sails. At Noon Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 2 minutes South. Course and distant since Yesterday at Noon is North 69 1/2 West, 37 Miles. The North Cape bore South 39 degrees East, distant 38 Leagues.

21st December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
Fresh breezes at South-West and clear weather with a heavy swell first from the West, then from the South-West. At 8 a.m. loosed the 2nd Reef out of the Topsails; at noon clear weather, no land in sight. The North Cape bore South 25 degrees East, distant 24 Leagues. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South.

20th December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
P.M., Fresh breezes at West by North, and Clear weather. At 6 Tack'd and stood off, North Cape bore South, distant 3 or 4 Miles. At 4 a.m. Tack'd and stood in, Wind at West-North-West a fresh breeze, but at 9 it increased to a Strong Gale with heavy squalls attended with Thunder and Rain, which brought us under our Courses. At 11 it Cleared up and the Wind came to West-South-West; we set the Topsails, double Reef'd and Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon, a Stiff Gale and Clear weather; Latitude observed 34 degrees 14 minutes South. North Cape South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues.

19th December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
The wind still continues at West. P.M., a moderate breeze and Clear weather. At 7 Tack'd in 35 fathoms; the point of land before mentioned bore North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Miles, having not gained one inch to windward this last 24 hours, which is a great proof that there must be a Current setting to the Eastward. The Point of Land above mentioned I have called North Cape, judging it to be the Northermost Extremity of this Country. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes South and Longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West from Greenwich,* (* This position is very correct.) and North 63 degrees West 31 Leagues from Cape Brett; it forms the North Point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula juting out North-East about 2 Miles, and Terminates in a Bluff head which is flatt at Top. The Isthmus which joins this head to the Mainland is very low, on which account the land off the Cape from several situations makes like an Island. It appears still more remarkable when to the Southward of it by the appearance of a high round Island at the South-East Point of the Cape; but this is likewise a deception, being a round hill join'd to the Cape by a low, narrow neck of Land; on the South-East side of the Cape there appears to be anchorage, and where ships must be covered from South-East and North-West winds. We saw a Hippa or Village upon the Cape and some few inhabitants. In the night had some Squalls attended with rain, which obliged us to take another Reef in our Topsails. At 8 a.m. Tack'd and stood in Shore, and being moderate loosed a Reef out of each Topsail and set the small sails. At noon we were in the Latitude of 34 degrees 2 minutes South, and being hazey over the land we did not see it.

Joseph Banks Journal
Stood out to sea last night: tonight were in with the land and found we had gaind something as we did also the last time we stood far off, which made the seamen conclude that some small current along shore must be the reason why we could never get any thing by our short trips.

18th December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
Moderate breezes at West and West-North-West and Clear weather. At 4 p.m. Tack'd and stood in shore, in doing of which we meet with a Strong rippling, and the Ship fell fast to leeward, occasioned, as we thought, by a Current setting to the Eastward. At 8 Tack'd and stood off North until 8 a.m., when we Tack'd and stood in, being about 10 Leagues from the Land. At Noon the Point of Land we were near to yesterday at noon bore South-South-West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 8 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal
Still more to leeward this morn and in the even still more. On a rock pretty near us an Indian fort was seen through our glasses which we all thought was encircled with a mud wall; if so tis the only one of the kind we have seen.

17th December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
A Gentle breeze between the South-West by West and West with Clear weather. In standing in Shore sounded several times and had no ground with 90 fathoms of line. At 8 a.m. Tack'd in 108 fathoms 3 or 4 miles from the Shore, being the same point of Land as we had to the North-West of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore South-West, distant about 3 Miles. Mount Camel bore South by East, distant 11 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore South 75 degrees West; Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 20 minutes South. The people at work repairing the Sails, the most of them having been Split in the late blowing weather.

Joseph Banks Journal
This morn we were in with the land which trends a little to the Southward so we hoped that our troubles are nearly at an end; during the days turning however we contrivd to lose near a leag[u]e, no great comfort to us.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 17th, in the morning, we were near land again, which seemed to be the farthest north, the land tending away from this point, which we called the North Cape to the South West. This land was pretty high, with a table top. We saw no canoes, nor any inhabitants; but, in the evening, we saw some smoke on the high land.

16th December 1769

[Off North Cape, New Zealand]
Fresh breezes between the South by West and South-West. Clear weather with a Swell from the Westward. At 6 A.M. saw the land from the Mast Head bearing South-South-West. Got Top Gallant Yards up and set the Sail, unbent the Foresail to repair and brought another to the Yard. At Noon, Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 43 minutes South; Course made since Yesterday Noon North 60 degrees West; distance 56 Miles. The Land in sight bearing South by West, distant 14 Leagues.

Joseph Banks Journal
We stood out to sea yesterday and last night so that we could in the morn only Just see the land from the mast head: stood in for it and at night made it plain.

15th December 1769

Fresh Gales at South-West, and for the most part clear weather with a large Swell from the Westward. At 8 P.M. Tack'd and Stood to the South-East until 8 a.m., and then Tack'd and stood to the Westward with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 183 degrees 45 minutes West, and by Estimation about 15 Leagues from the Land notwithstanding we used our utmost Endeavours to keep in with it.

Joseph Banks Journal
More moderate but not more fair: we begin to think this Cape our Ne plus ultra.

Interesting posting from The Beagle, some 66 years later in the same seas : http://darwinbeagle.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/31st-december-1835.html

14th December 1769

[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Strong Gales at West and West-South-West with Squalls at times attended with Rain. At 1/2 past 3 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the Northward. A small Island lying off Knockle point, bore South 1/2 West, distant half a League. In the evening brought the Ship under her Courses, having first Split the Fore and Mizen Top sails; at Midnight wore and Stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9 Leagues; by this we found we had fell very much to Leeward since Yesterday morning. Set the Top sails close Reeft and the people to dry and repair the Damaged Sails. At Noon a strong Gale and clear weather, Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South-West being the same North-Westermost land we have seen before, and which I take to be the Northern Extremity of this Country, as we have now a large swell rowling in from the Westward which could not well be, was we covered by any land on that point of the Compass.* (* The Endeavour was now to the northward of the north point of New Zealand.)

13th December 1769

[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Fore part of P.M., Moderate breezes at North by West and fair weather; stood in shore until 5 O'Clock, at which time we tack'd and stood to the North-East being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and this situation had 22 fathoms water. At 10 it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double Reeft Top sails; at 12 Tack'd and Stood to the Westward until 7 A.M. when we Tack'd and stood again to North-East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we Tack'd it came on to blow very hard at North-North-West with heavy squalls attended with rain, this brought us under our Courses and Split the Main Top sail in such a manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the Yard. At 10 it fell more moderate and we set the Top sails double reef'd. At Noon had strong Gales and hazey weather, Tack'd and stood to the Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the Coast.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 13th, the N. W. wind still prevailing, we could do nothing but lie on and off the land, without. making any way. It blew very hard, and we had some fierce squalls, attended with heavy showers of rain, which drove us back to where we had been four days before.

12th December 1769

[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Moderate breezes of Wind between the North-West and North and Smooth Water, yet we gain'd very little in plying to Windward; at Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.

11th December 1769

[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set yesterday at noon bore North-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.

Joseph Banks Journal
Wind as heard hearted as ever: we turnd all day without loosing any thing, much to the credit of our old Collier, who we never fail to praise if she turns as well as this.

10th December 1769

[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand]
Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a Gentle breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12 degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the Amplitude; in the morning we stood Close in with the Land, 7 Leagues to the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open Bay; the Bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other, being to all appearance only seperated by a low neck of land from which juts out a Peninsula or head land, which I have named Knockle Point. West by South 6 Leagues from this point and about the Middle of the Bay is a high Mountain or Hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186 degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms Water, the bottom good for Anchorage, but their seems to be nothing that can induce Shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can look more barren than the land about this bay doth. It is in general low, except the Mountain just Mentioned, and the Soil to all appearance nothing but white sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in Narrow ridges parrallel with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay.* (* Rangaunu Bay.) The first ridge behind the Sea beach is partly cover'd with Shrubs, Plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it, which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea. As barren as this land appears it is not without inhabitants. We saw a Village on this Side of Mount Camel and another on the Eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 Canoes that were pulling off to the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to the Northward at Noon. Latitude in Per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes. The Cavalle Isles bore South-East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the Northern Extremity of the land in sight making like an Island bore North-West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South-West by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in Shore.

Joseph Banks Journal
This morn we were near the land which was as barren as it is possible to conceive: hills within hills and ridges even far inland were coverd with white sand on which no kind of vegetable was to be seen, it was conjecturd by some that the wind blow[s] the sand quite across it. Some Indian forts or Heppah's were seen and from them some canoes put off but did not overtake us.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 10th, the wind was N.W. we beat to windward, and made but little way. The land in fight was very low, and very barren, being mostly sandy, having here and there a few bushes, but scarce a tree to be seen, yet it appeared to be inhabited.

9th December 1769
























[Off Northland, New Zealand]
P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West, which in the Evening came to South and continued so all night; this by daylight brought us pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle Isles, and where lies a deep Bay running in South-West by West and West-South-West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the land appear'd to be low and level, the 2 points which form the Entrance lie West-North-West and East-South-East 5 Miles from each other. This Bay I have named Doubtless Bay;* (* There is a small settlement called Mangonui in Doubtless Bay.) the wind not permitting us to look into this Bay we steer'd for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from us West-North-West, distant 3 Leagues, but before we got the length of it it fell calm, and continued so until 10 o'Clock, when a breeze sprung up at West-North-West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay becalm'd, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 Canoes, but were fearful of venturing alongside. After these were gone, 6 more came off; these last came boldly alongside, and sold us fish of different sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.

At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South-East by East, distant 8 Leagues, and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and the North-West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the Main, bore North-West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 44 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal
Fair wind tho but little of it. Many Canoes came off who shewd much fear of us and after some time said that they had heard of our Guns. Tupia at last persuaded them to come under the stern and after having bought of them some of their cloths, which they sold very fairly, began to enquire about the countrey. They told him that at the distance of three days rowing in their canoes, at a place calld Moorewhennua, the land would take a short turn to the southward and from thence extend no more to the West. This place we concluded must be Cape Maria Van Diemen, and finding these people so intelligent desird him to enquire if they knew of any Countries besides this or ever went to any. They said no but that their ancestors had told them to the NW by N or NNW was a large countrey to which some people had saild in a very large canoe, which passage took them up a month: from this expedition a part only returnd who told their countreymen that they had seen a countrey where the people eat hogs, for which animal they usd the same name (Booah) as is usd in the Islands. And have you no hoggs among you? said Tupia.--No.--And did your ancestors bring none back with them?--No.--You must be a parcel of Liars then, said he, and your story a great lye for your ancestors would never have been such fools as to come back without them. Thus much as a specimen of Indian reasoning. After much conversation our freinds left us but promisd to return at night and bring with them fish, which they did and sold it very reasonably.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 9th, many canoes came off to us, of which we bought a good quantity of fish. The land hereabout looked very barren, and tends away to the north.

8th December 1769

[Off Northland, New Zealand]
Forepart of P.M. had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands. They are a Group of Small Islands lying close under the Main land, and 7 Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point Rodney. From these Islands the Main land trends West by North. We were here Visited by several Canoes, and the People in them seem'd desirous of Trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to South-West and West, a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the Morning 13 degrees East. Keept standing to the West-North-West and North-West until 10 A.M., at which time we tacked and stood in for the Shore, being about 5 Leagues off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms Water. At Noon Cape Brett bore South-East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from Land. Latitude in per Observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.

6th - 7th December 1769

[Sail from Bay of Islands, New Zealand]

6th P.M., had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain'd little or nothing; in the evening it fell little wind; at 10 o'Clock it was Calm. At this time the tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we were very near being ashore; but, by the help of our Boats and a light Air from the Southward, we got clear. About an hour after, when we thought ourselves out of all danger, the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock* (* Called Whale Rock, in Endeavour's chart) and went immediately clear without receiving any perceptible damage. Just before the man in the Chains had 17 fathoms Water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms, but very soon Deepned to 20. This rock lies half-a-mile West-North-West from the Northermost or outermost Island that lies on the South-East side of the Bay. Had light Airs from the Land and sometimes Calm until 9 o'Clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze springing up at North-North-West, we stood out to Sea. At noon Cape Brett bore South-South-East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34 degrees 59 minutes South.

7th. P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather. At 3 o'Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the Westward.

5th December 1769

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
P.M., had the winds at South-West and West-South-West, a fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock we return'd on board, and after dinner Visited another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our Empty Casks were fill'd with water, and had at the same time got on board a large quantity of Sellery, which is found here in great Plenty. This I still caused to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable Soup for the Ship's Company's breakfast. At 4 a.m. weigh'd with a light breeze at South-East, but had Variable light Airs and sometimes Calm until near Noon, when a Gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not got out of the Bay; our Latitude by Observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes South. This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands, on account of the Great Number which line its shores, and these help to form Several safe and Commodious Harbours, wherein is room and Depth of Water sufficient for any number of Shipping. The one we lay in is on the South-West side of South-Westermost Island, that lies on the South-East side of the Bay. I have made no accurate Survey of this Bay; the time it would have requir'd to have done this discouraged me from attempting it; besides, I thought it quite Sufficient to be able to Affirm with Certainty that it affords a good Anchorage and every kind of refreshment for Shipping, but as this was not the Season for roots, we got only fish. Some few we Caught ourselves with hook and line and in the Sean, but by far the greatest part we purchased of the Natives, and these of Various sorts, such as Sharks, Stingrays, Breams, Mullet, Mackerel, and several other sorts. Their way of Catching them is the same as ours, viz., with Hook and line and Seans; of the last they have some prodidgious large made all of a Strong Kind of Grass. The Mackerel are in every respect the same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever saw in any other Part of the World; although this is the Season for this fish, we have never been able to Catch one with hook and line. The inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another, although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head.  They inhabited both the Islands and the Main, and have a Number of Hippas, or Strong Holds, and these are all built in such places as nature hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people themselves have finished. It is high water in this Bay at full and change of the Moon about 8 o'clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few Observations I have been able to make of the Tides on the Sea-Coast, that the flood comes from the Southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that there is a current which comes from the Westward and sets along shore to the South-East or South-South-East, as the Land lays.

Joseph Banks Journal
A small spirt of fair wind before day break made us heave up the anchor in a great hurry, but before we were well underway it was as foul as ever so we were obligd to atempt turning out. Many canoes came from all parts of the bay which is by far the most populous place we have been in. In the middle of the day we were becalmd and caught many fish with hooks. About 10 at night as we were going through the outer heads on a sudden we wer[e] becalmd so that the ship would neither wear nor stay: in a moment an eddy tide took hold of us and hustled us so fast towards the land that before the Officers resolvd what was best to be done the ship was within a Cables lengh of the breakers, we had 13 fathom water but the ground so foul that they dar'd not drop an anchor. The eddy now took another turn and set her along shore opening another bay but we were too near the rocks to trust to that: the pinnace was orderd to be hoisted out in an instant to take the ship in tow, Every man in her was I beleive sensible of the Danger we were in so no one spard to do his best to get her out fast. The event however shewd how liable such situations must be to Confusion: they lowerd down too soon and she stuck upon a gun: from this she must be thrust by main force, in doing which they had almost ove[r]set her which would have tumbled out her oars: no man thought of running in the gun: at last that was done and she was afloat, her crew was soon in her and she went to her duty. A faint breeze of wind now sprung up off the land and with that and towing she to our great Joy got head way again, at a time when she was so near the shore that Tupia who was not sensible of our danger was conversing with the Indians ashore, who made themselves very distinctly heard notwithstanding the roaring of the breakers. We were all happy in our breeze and fine clear moonlight; myself went down to bed and sat upon my cott undressing myself when I felt the ship strike upon a rock, before I could get upon my leggs she struck again. I ran upon deck but before I could get there the danger was over; fortunately the rock was to wind ward of us so she went off without the least damage and we got into the proper channel, where the officers who had examind the bay declard there to be no hidden dangers--much to our satisfaction as the almost certainty of being eat as soon as you come ashore adds not a little to the terrors of shipwreck.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
We weighed anchor, but were becalmed at the entrance of the bay, which we called the Bay of Islands, from the many islands in it. However, as it frequently happens in life, a lesser evil secured us from a greater; being detained here, we escaped a severe gale at sea, that might have proved very dangerous to us, as the wind blew a perfect hurricane, one day, accompanied with heavy showers of rain. The natives (being more sensible of our power) behaved very civil, and brought us a great many fish; and while we lay here, we caught some ourselves with hook and line. A canoe came into the bay that had eighty people in her, most of whom paddled; the chiefs wore garments of dogs skins, and were very much tataowed; the men upon their hips, and the women on their breast, necks, and bellies. We saw many plantations of the Koomarra, and some of the Eaowte, or cloth trees.

4th December 1769

Image: View of the Hippa on the island of Motuaro in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand (Sydney Parkinson)

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
Gentle breezes at North-West, West-North-West, and West; very fair weather. P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon one of the Islands* (* Probably Motu-Rua) on the North side of the one the Ship lays under. This Island is about 3 Miles in Circuit, and hath upon it 40 or 50 Acres of Land cultivated and planted with roots; here are likewise several small streams of Excellent water. This Island, as well as most others in this Bay, seem to be well inhabited. At 4 a.m. sent the Long boat to the above Island for water and some hands to cut Grass, and at 9, I went with the Pinnace and Yawl over upon the Main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. In our way we passed by a point of land on which stood a Hippa or Fortified Village, the inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed, which we had no sooner done than the People came about us with Quantitys of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for meer Trifles. After this they shew'd us the Village, which was a neat Compact place, and its situation well Choose. There were 2 or 3 more near unto this, but these we did not go to.

We afterwards went a little way into the Country, and had some of the Natives along with us; we met with a good deal of Cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the Country appear'd Green and pleasant, and the soil seem'd to be pretty rich and proper for Cultivation. The land is every where about this Bay of a moderate height, but full of small Hills and Vallies, and not much incumbered with wood. We met with about 1/2 a dozen Cloth plants, being the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropics make their finest Cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the Cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of Ornaments at their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so much English Cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it's more than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and likewise upon Iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the least value upon; but was European commodities in ever such Esteem among them, they have no one thing of Equal value to give in return, at least that we have seen.

Joseph Banks Journal
Our Old man came on board and brought with him his brother who had been shot with small shot on the 29th; it had slanted along his thigh which I suppose had not less than 100 shotts in it. This wound was likewise without any application and seemd to give him little or no pain but was crusted over with a hard crust, natures plaister, equal maybe when she chuses to apply it to any that art has contrivd.

After breakfast we went ashore at a large Indian fort or heppah; a great number of people immediately crouded about us and sold almost a boat load of fish in a very short time. They then went and shewd us their plantations which were very large of Yamms, Cocos, and sweet potatoes; and after having a little laught at our seine, which was a common kings seine, shewd us one of theirs which was 5 fathom deep and its lengh we could only guess, as it was not stretchd out, but it could not from its bulk be less than 4 or 500 fathom. Fishing seems to be the cheif business of this part of the countrey; about all their towns are abundance of netts laid upon small heaps like hay cocks and thatchd over and almost every house you go into has netts in it making. After this they shewd us a great rarity 6 plants of what they calld Aouta from whence they made cloth like the Otahite cloth; the plant provd exactly the same, as the name is the same, as is usd in the Islands, Morus papyrifera Linn., the same plant as is usd by the Chinese to make paper. Whether the Climate does not well agree with it I do not know, but they seemd to value it very much and that it was very scarce among them I am inclind to beleive, as we have not yet seen among them peices large enough for any use but sticking into the holes of their Ears.

In the afternoon we went to a very distant part of the bay, the people here were very few. All but one old man ran away from us; he accompanied us where ever we went and seemd much pleasd with the little presents we made him. Near where we landed was a little fort built upon a small rock, surrounded by the sea at high water and accessible only by a ladder. We expressd a desire to go there; he said there was his wife but if we would promise to practice no indecencies towards her he would accompany us; this we most readily did and he was as good as his word. The ascent was so difficult that tho there were stepps and a pole we found it dangerous enough. When we came up there were in it 3 women who on our first coming cried, but presents soon put them into better humour. There were in all only 3 houses, but the situation as I have before describd was so steep that the inhabitants of them might easily defend themselves against almost any force that could be brought against them.

3rd December 1769

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle breezes from the Westward. A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.

Joseph Banks Journal
Many Canoes were on board in the morn, one very large which carried 82 people. After breakfast Dr Solander and myself went ashore on the Continent; we found few plants and saw but few people but they were most perfectly civil; we went by their invitation to their little town which was situated in the bottom of a cove without the least defence. One of the old men here shewd us the instruments with which they stain their bodies which was exactly like those usd at Otahite. We saw also here the man who was shot at on the 29th in atempting to steal the Buoy; the ball had gone through the fleshy part of his arm and grazd his breast; the wound was open to the air without the smallest application upon it yet it had as good an appearance and seemd to give him as little pain as if he had had the best dressings to it. We gave him a musquet ball and with a little talking to he seemd very fully sensible of the escape he had had.

In the Even we went ashore on another Island where were many more people than we had seen in the morn, who livd in the same peacable stile and had very large plantations of sweet potatoes, yamms etc. all about their village. They receivd us much as our freinds in the morning had done and like them shewd much satisfaction at the little presents of necklaces etc. which were given to them.

2nd December 1769

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
Winds at North-West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m. hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one Turn of water and but a very few fish.

Joseph Banks Journal
Boats went ashore on the Island again. I do not know what tempted Dr Solander and myself to go there where we almost knew nothing was to be got but wet skins, which we had very sufficiently for it raind all the time we were ashore as hard as I ever saw it.

1st December 1769

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
Winds at North-North-West a Gentle breeze. At 3 p.m., the Boats having return'd from sounding, I went with them over to the South side of the Harbour, and landed upon the Main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove, where there are 2 small Streams of Fresh Water and Plenty of Wood for fuel. Here were likewise several little Plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams. The Soil and Natural produce of the Country was much the same as what we have hitherto met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship. In the evening we had Some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought us on board sooner than we intended. A.M., the wind being still contrary, I sent some people ashore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep, in the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the Ship. Punished Matthew Cox with 6 Lashes, and then dismiss'd him.

Joseph Banks Journal
Several Canoes were on board by Day break and sold some things cheifly for Indian Cloth and quart bottles. The day misty and stewy: the boats were on shore on the Island which we searchd on the 29th with so little success that we did not think it worth while to go ashore.

It is now a long time since I have mentiond their custom of Eating human flesh, as I was loth a long time to beleive that any human beings could have among them so brutal a custom. I am now however convincd and shall here give a short account of what we have heard from the Indians concerning it. At Taoneroa the first place we landed in on the Continent the boys who we had on board mentiond it of their own accords, asking whether the meat they eat was not human flesh, as they had no Idea of any animal but a man so large till they saw our sheep: they however seemd ashamd of the custom, saying that the tribe to which they belongd did not use it but that another very near did. Since that we have never faild wherever we went ashore and often when we convers'd with canoes to ask the question; we have without one exception been answerd in the affirmative, and several times as at Tolaga and today the people have put themselves into a heat by defending the Custom, which Tubia who had never before heard of such a thing takes every Occasion to speak ill of, exhorting them often to leave it off. They however as universaly agree that they eat none but the bodies of those of their enemies who are killd in war, all others are buried.

30th November 1769

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
P.M., had the winds Westerly, with some very heavy Showers of Rain. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than between 300 and 400 of the Natives Assembled in their Canoes about the Ship; some few were admitted on board, and to one of the Chiefs I gave a piece of Broad Cloth and distributed a few Nails, etc., among some others of them. Many of these People had been off to the Ship when we were at Sea, and seem'd to be very sencible of the use of Fire Arms, and in the Trade we had with them they behaved Tolerable well, but continued so not long, before some of them wanted to take away the Buoy,* (* The buoy on the anchor) and would not desist at the firing of several Musquets until one of them was hurt by small Shott, after which they withdrew a small distance from the Ship, and this was thought a good opportunity to try what Effect a Great Gun would have, as they paid so little respect to a Musquet, and accordingly one was fir'd over their Heads. This, I believe, would have sent them quite off, if it had not been for Tupia, who soon prevail'd on them to return to the Ship, when their behaviour was such as gave us no room to suspect that they meant to give us any farther Trouble.

After the Ship was moved into Deeper Water I went with the Pinnace and Yawl, mann'd and Arm'd, and landed upon the Island, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We had scarce landed before all the Canoes left the Ship and landed at different parts of the Island, and before we could well look about us we were surrounded by 2 or 300 People, and, notwithstanding that they were all Arm'd, they came upon us in such a confused, straggling manner that we hardly suspected that they meant us any harm; but in this we were very soon undeceived, for upon our Endeavouring to draw a line on the sand between us and them they set up the War dance, and immediately some of them attempted to seize the 2 Boats. Being disappointed in this, they next attempted to break in upon us, upon which I fir'd a Musquet loaded with small Shott at one of the Forwardest of them, and Mr. Banks and 2 of the Men fir'd immediately after. This made them retire back a little, but in less than a minute one of the Chiefs rallied them again. Dr. Solander, seeing this, gave him a peppering with small Shott, which sent him off and made them retire a Second time. They attempted to rally several times after, and only seem'd to want some one of resolution to head them; but they were at last intirely dispers'd by the Ship firing a few shott over their Heads and a Musquet now and then from us. In this Skirmish only one or 2 of them was Hurt with small Shott, for I avoided killing any one of them as much as Possible, and for that reason withheld our people from firing. We had observed that some had hid themselves in a Cave in one of the Rocks, and sometime after the whole was over we went Towards them. The Chief who I have mentioned to have been on board the Ship hapned to be one of these; he, his wife, and another came out to meet us, but the rest made off. Those 3 people came and sat down by us, and we gave them of such things as we had about us. After this we went to another part of the Island, where some of the inhabitants came to us, and were as meek as lambs.

Having taken a View of the Bay from the Island and Loaded both Boats with Sellery, which we found here in great plenty, we return'd on board, and at 4 A.M. hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea, with a light breeze at East, but it soon falling Calm, obliged us to come too again, and about 8 or 9 o'Clock, seeing no probability of our getting to Sea, I sent the Master to Sound the Harbour. But before this I order'd Matthew Cox, Henry Stevens, and Emanl Parreyra to be punished with a dozen lashes each for leaving their duty when ashore last night, and digging up Potatoes out of one of the Plantations.* (* Cook's care to deal fairly with natives is evinced by this punishment) The first of the 3 I remitted back to Confinement because he insisted that there was no harm in what he had done. All this Forenoon had abundance of the Natives about the Ship and some few on board. We Trafficked with them for a few Trifles, in which they dealt very fair and friendly.

Joseph Banks Journal
Several canoes came off to the ship very Early but sold little or nothing, indeed no merchandice that we can shew them seems to take with them. Our Island cloth which usd to be so much esteemd has now intirely lost its value: they have for some days told us that they have of it ashore and shewd us small peices in their Ears which they said was of their own manufacture, this at once accounts for their having been once so fond of it and now setting so little value upon it. Towards noon however they sold a little dryd fish for paper cheifly or very white Island Cloth. Among other things they told us that the man who was shot at with small shot on the  7th was dead, shot they said struck his Eye and I suppose found there an easy passage to his brain. In the Even we went ashore upon the Continent: the people receivd us very civily and as tame as we could wish.

One general observation I here set down, that they Always after one nights consideration have acknowledgd our superiority but hardly before: I have often seen a man whose next neighbour was wounded or killd by our shot not give himself the trouble to enquire how or by what means he was hurt, so that at the time of their attacks they I beleive work themselves up into a kind of artificial Courage which does not allow them time to think much.

29th November 1769

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand]
Fresh Gales at North-West and West-North-West, kept plying to Windward until 7 A.M., and finding that we lost ground every board we made, I thought I could not do better than to bear up for the Bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Brett, it being at this Time not above 2 Leagues to Leeward of us, for by putting in there we should gain some knowledge of it, on the Contrary, by Keeping the Sea with a Contrary wind, we were sure of meeting with nothing new. These reasons induced me to bear away for the Bay,* (* The Bay of Islands) and at 11 o'Clock we Anchor'd under the South-West side of one of the many Islands* (* Motu Arohia) that line the South-East side of it, in 4 1/2 fathoms; but as we fell into this shoald water all at once, we Anchor'd sooner than was intended, and sent the Master with 2 Boats to sound, who found that we had got upon a Bank that spitted off from the North-West end of the Island, and that on the outside of it was 8 and 10 fathoms Water.

Joseph Banks Journal
Wind as foul as ever and the ship moved more to leward, so we res[o]lvd to bear away for a bay which we had Passd. We did so and by 10 came to an anchor in a most spatious and well shelterd harbour or rather collection of harbours almost innumerable formd by Islands. Canoes crowded upon us from all quarters so that we soon had 37 large and small about us; the people in them traded very fairly for what they had and shewd much fear of us, especialy if they saw any thing like a gun which they were well acquainted with. They became however soon a little more bold and while we were at dinner one of them went to the Buoy which they atempted to tow away: a musquet was fird over them without effect [and?] small shot at them but they were too far off for that to take effect. A ball was then fird at them which was thought to strike one of them as they immediately threw out the Buoy which by this time they had got into their Canoe; a round shot was then fird over them which struck the water and then went ashore; 2 or 3 canoes landed immediately and the men ran about on the beach as if in search of it. After this we calld to them and in a little time they all returnd to the ship. By this time she was properly moor'd and the Boats out, so we set out for the shore.

At our parting from the ship not a canoe stirrd which we Judgd a good sign, but no sooner had we set a foot on the shore about ¾ of a mile from the ship but every Canoe put off in a moment and pulld towards us. We were in a sandy cove behind the two heads of which the most of them landed, one or 2 only in sight; out of these they came running with every man his arms, others appeard on the tops of the hills and numbers from behind each head of the Cove so that we were in a moment surrounded by (the gentlemen in the ship say) 5 or 600 men tho we I beleive never saw more than 200 of them. We now every man expected to be attackd but did not chuse to begin hostilities so the Captn and myself marchd up to meet them. They crouded a good deal but did not offer to meddle with us, tho every man had his arms almost lifted up to strike. We brought them towards the party and made a line signing to them that they were not to pass it: they did not at first but by this time a party from the other side had come up and mixd with our people. They now began to sing their war song but committed no hostility till 3 steppd to each of our boats and attempted to draw them ashore. It was now time to fire, we whose Guns were loaded with small shot did so which drove them back. One man attempted to Rally them; he who was not 20 yards from us came down towards us waving his Patoo patoo and calling to his companions; Dr Solander whose gun was not dischargd fird at him on which he too ran. They now got upon rising ground about us from whence we dislogd them by firing musquet balls, none of which took effect farther than frightning them. In this way we were about ¼ of an hour, resolving to maintain our ground, when the ship had brought her broadside to bear and fird at the Indians who were on the topps of the hills. The balls went quite over them notwithstanding which they went off and at last left us our cove quite to ourselves, so that the musquets were laid down upon the ground and all hands employd in gathering Cellery which was here very plentifull.

An Old Indian now appeard who had been on board in the morn with two more, they came immediately to us and provd to be his wife and brother. He said that another brother of his was struck with the small shot and askd whether he would dye: we told him no and gave him a musquet ball with some small shot telling him that it was the latter with which he was struck, but that if they again attackd us we would shoot them with the former which would infallibly kill them. After this we went into the boats and rowd to another Cove in the same Island near which was a high hill from whence we might have a good view of the bay. We climbd up it and from thence saw that the bay we were in was indeed a most surprizing place: it was full of an innumerable quantity of Islands forming as many harbours, which must be as smooth as mill pools as they Landlock one another numberless times. Every where round us we could see large Indian towns, houses and cultivations: we had certainly seen no place near so populous as this one was very near us, from whence several Indians came to us taking however great pains to shew us that they were unarmd. They acompanied us down to the boat. Night coming on we went onboard carrying much Celery, the only plant of any use even to us, for of all the places I have landed in this was the only one which did not produce one new vegetable.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
On the 29th, in the morning, having weathered a long point of land, which we named Cape Brett, we bore away to leeward; got into a very large harbour, where we were land-locked, and had several pretty coves on every side of us. We passed a small island which we named Piercy Island, and soon after cast anchor. Many canoes came off to us; and the people in them, according to custom, behaved somewhat unruly: while I saluted one of them, in their manner, he picked my pocket. Some of our people fired upon them, but they did not seem to regard it much. One of our boats went on shore, and then they set off all at once, and attempted to seize her, in which, however, they failed; but soon after Mr. Banks got on shore, he had like to have been apprehended by one of the natives, but happily escaped. The marines fired upon them; five great guns were fired from the ship, and Otegoowgoow, son to one of their chiefs, was wounded in the thigh. The natives, affrighted, fled precipitately to a Hippa, where our people followed them; and, at length, they became very submissive. Had these barbarians acted more in concert, they would have been a formidable enemy, and might have done us much mischief; but they had no kind of order or military discipline among them. They gave us some large mackarel, which ate very deliciously, and that was almost the only article they would part with.

28th November 1769

[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand]
A Fresh breeze from the Westward all this day, which being right in our teeth, we kept beating to windward with all the sail we could Crowd, but instead of Gaining we lost ground. A.M., being close in with the land to the Westward of the Bay, which lies on this side of Cape Brett, we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages Pallisaded in the same manner as others we have seen. At noon, Cape Brett South-East by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues; Latitude observed 35 degrees 0 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal
Foul wind continued and this morn the ship was 2 leagues at least to leward of yesterday. The Continent rose in gentle hills but did not appear so fertile when near it as it did at a distance; several large heppas were in sight one the largest we have seen, to appearance far inland.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
The wind having been against us for several days, and as we could get no farther with our heavy ship.

27th November 1769

[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand]
P.M., Gentle breezes Easterly, and Clear weather. At 3 passed the point of land afore-mentioned, which I have named Cape Brett in honour of Sir Piercy.* (* Rear Admiral Sir Piercey Brett was one of the Lords of the Admiralty when the Endeavour sailed) The land of this Cape is considerable higher than any part of the Adjacent Coast. At the very point of the Cape is a high round Hillock, and North-East by North, near one Mile from this is a small high Island or Rock with a hole pierced thro' it like the Arch of a Bridge, and this was one reason why I gave the Cape the above name, because Piercy seem'd very proper for that of the Island. This Cape, or at least some part of it, is called by the Natives Motugogogo; Latitude 35 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds South, Longitude 185 degrees 25 minutes West. On the West side of Cape Brett is a large and pretty deep Bay* (* The Bay of Islands) lying in South-West by West, in which there appear'd to be several small Islands. The point that forms the North-West entrance I have named Point Pocock; it lies West 1/4 North, 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Brett.

On the South-West side of this Bay we saw several Villages situated both on Islands and on the Main land, from whence came off to us several large Canoes full of People, but, like those that had been alongside before, would not Enter into a friendly Traffick with us, but would Cheat whenever they had an opportunity. The people in these Canoes made a very good appearance, being all stout well-made men, having their Hair--which was black--comb'd up and tied upon the Crown of their heads, and there stuck with white feathers; in each of the Canoes were 2 or 3 Chiefs, and the Habits of these were rather superior to any we had yet seen. The Cloth they wore was of the best sort, and cover'd on the outside with Dog Skins put on in such a manner as to look Agreeable enough to the Eye. Few of these people were Tattow'd or marked in the face, like those we have seen farther to the South, but several had their Backsides Tattow'd much in the same manner as the inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics.

In the Course of this day, that is this afternoon and Yesterday forenoon, we reckoned that we had not less than 400 or 500 of the Natives alongside and on board the ship, and in that time did not range above 6 or 8 Leagues of the Sea Coast, a strong proof that this part of the Country must be well inhabited. In the Evening, the Wind came to the Westward of North, and we Tack'd and stood off North-East until 11 o'Clock, when the wind coming more favourable we stood again to the Westward. At 8 a.m we were within a Mile of Groups of Islands lying close under the Mainland and North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 22 Miles from Cape Brett. Here we lay for near 2 Hours, having little or no wind. During this time several Canoes came off to the Ship, and 2 or 3 of them sold us some fish--Cavallys as they are called--which occasioned my giving the Islands the same name. After this some others began to Pelt us with Stones, and would not desist at the firing of 2 Musquet Balls thro' one of their Boats; at last I was obliged to pepper 2 or 3 fellows with small Shott, after which they retir'd, and the wind coming at North-West we stood off to Sea. At Noon, Cavally Islands bore South-West by South, distant 4 Miles; Cape Brett South-East, distant 7 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight, making like Islands, bore West by North; Latitude in per Observation 34 degrees 55 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal
Light breeze. Several canoes came off and traded for fish but were most abominably saucy, continualy threatning us, at last they began to heave stone[s] with more courage than any boats we had seen. This made it nescessary to punish them: the Captn went upon the Poop where they immediately threw at him, he leveld a gun loaded with small shot at the man who held a stone in his hand in the very action of throwing and struck him. He sunk down so immediately into the Canoe that we suspected he was materialy hurt; this however did not prevent another Canoe from coming up with stones in their hands who met another load of small shot at about 50 yards distant which struck several of them and at once stopd their speed. The two canoes which had been fird at went immediately for the shore, the others dropd astern and we left them behind. The land appeard rocky and full of Islands, the Continent behind them rose in a gradual slope and seemd fertile; some cultivation was in sight. In the even foul wind.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
We were among a parcel of small broken islands, which we called the Poor Knights; and many canoes came along side of us, but the people in them seemed to be half mad. We asked them for some fish, and they took them up by handfuls and threw them at us, not regarding whether they had any thing from us in return: more canoes coming up, they began to behave very rudely, and heaved stones at us. One man, in particular, more active than the rest, took up a stick and threw it at one of our men on the taffel. A musket loaded with small shot was fired at him, upon which he clapped his hands to his face and fell flat in the canoe. This event alarmed the rest, and they made off as fast as they could, and we saw no more of them.

26th November 1769

[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand]
Gentle breezes between the East-North-East and North, kept ranging along shore to the Northward. At the distance of 4 or 5 Miles off saw several Villages and some Cultivated lands; towards evening several Canoes came off to us, and some of the Natives ventur'd on board; to 2, who appear'd to be Chiefs, I gave presents. After these were gone out of the Ship, the others became so Troublesome that in order to get rid of them we were at the expence of 2 or 3 Musquet Balls, and one 4 pound Shott, but as no harm was intended them, none they received, unless they hapned to over heat themselves in pulling on shore. In the Night had variable light Airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South, and afterward at South-East; with this we proceeded slowly to the Northward. At 6 a.m. several Canoes came off from the place where they landed last night, and between this and noon many more came from other parts. Had at one time a good many of the people on board, and about 170 alongside; their behaviour was Tolerable friendly, but we could not prevail upon them to Traffic with us. At noon, the Mainland Extending from South by East to North-West by West; a remarkable point of land bore West, distant 4 or 5 miles. Latitude Observed 35 degrees 11 minutes South.

Joseph Banks Journal
Two small canoes came off early in the morn and told us that they had heard of yesterdays adventure, they came on board and traded queitly for whatever they had: soon after two larger ones came from a distance, they calld the others to them and then All came up together to the ship. The strangers were numerous and appeard rich: their Canoes were well carvd and ornamented and they had with them many weapons of patoo patoos of stone and whales bones which they value much; they had also ribbs of whales of which we had often seen imitations in wood carvd and ornamented with tufts of Dogs hair. The people themselves were browner than to the Southward as indeed they have been ever since we came to Opoorage, and they had a much larger quantity of Amoco or black stains upon their bodys and faces; almost universaly they had a broad spiral on each buttock and many had their thighs almost intirely black, small lines only being left untouchd so that they lookd like stripd breeches. In this particular, I mean Amoco, almost every different tribe seem to vary their customs: we have some days seen Canoes where every man has been almost coverd with it, and at the same time others where scarce a man has had a spot except his lipps black'd, which seems to be always Essential. These people would not part with any of their arms etc. for any price we could offer; at last however one producd an axe of Talk and offerd it for Cloth, it was given and the Canoe immediately put off with it. A musquet ball was fird over their heads on which they immediately came back and returnd the cloth but soon after put off and went ashore.

In the afternoon other Canoes came off and from some inattention of the officers were sufferd to cheat unpunishd and unfrightned. This put one of the Midshipmen who had sufferd upon a droll tho rather mischeivous revenge. He got a fishing line and when the Canoe was close to the ship hove the lead at the man who had cheated, with so good success that he fastned the hook into his backside, on which he pulld with all his might and the Indian kept back, so the hook soon broke in the shank leaving its beard in his backside, no very agreable legacy.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
Many canoes visited us. The people in them were much the same as the former. They had a variety of things on board, and about them, but were 1othe to part with any of them excepting fish, of which we obtained a large quantity.

The coast we sailed along this day, was generally barren, and broke into a number of small islands, among which we presumed there might be safe and good anchorage. We had calm and pleasant weather.

25th November 1769

[At Firth of Thames, North Island, New Zealand]
P.M., had fresh Gales at South-West, and Squally weather. We kept standing along Shore to the North-West, having the Main land on the one side and Islands on the other; our Soundings were from 26 to 12 fathoms. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. we Anchor'd in a Bay in 14 fathoms, sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than we caught between 90 and 100 Bream (a fish so called), this occasioned my giving this place the Name of Bream Bay.* (* Whangarei Bay) The 2 points which forms this Bay lie North and South 5 Leagues from each other. The Bay is every where pretty broad and between 3 and 4 Leagues deep; at the bottom of it their appears to be a fresh water River.* (* Whangarei River. The district is very fertile. Coal mines are in the vicinity, and coal is exported) The North head of the Bay, called Bream head, is high land and remarkable on account of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it; it lies in the Latitude 35 degrees 46 minutes South and North 41 degrees West, distant 17 1/2 Leagues from Cape Colvill. This Bay may likewise be known by some Small Islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens, one of which is pretty high and terminates at Top in 2 peaks. The land between Point Rodney and Bream Head, which is 10 Leagues, is low and wooded in Turfs, and between the Sea and the firm land are white sand banks. We saw no inhabitants but saw fires in the Night, a proof that the Country is not uninhabited. At daylight A.M. we left the Bay and directed our Course along shore to the northward, having a Gentle breeze at South by West and Clear weather. A little after sunrise found the Variation to be 12 degrees 42 minutes Easterly. At Noon, our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 36 minutes South; Bream head bore South distant 10 Miles; some small Islands (Poor Knights) at North-East by North distant 3 Leagues, and the Northermost land in sight bore North-North-West, being at this Time 2 miles from the Shore, and in this Situation had 26 fathoms; the land here about is rather low and pretty well cover'd with wood and seems not ill inhabited.

Joseph Banks Journal
The countrey had a tolerably good appearance. In the morn some stragling houses and 3 or 4 fortified towns were in sight, near which was a large quantity of Cultivation; in the Evening 7 large canoes came off carrying about 200 Indians. Two of them who said they had heard of us came on board and receivd our presents: this did not however hinder some of their companions from cheating as usual by offering to trade and keeping what they had got without sending up what they had offerd. Our usual punishment was inflicted, small shot, which made the offender immediately relinqu[i]sh his prize (an old pair of Black breches) which he threw into the water on seeing a second musquet presented. His companions however as soon as they thought themselves out of our reach began an usual to defy us which made us think it nescessary to shew them what we could do, a conduct surely most right when it can be done without hurting them: musquets were fird near them which made them draw a little farther off, a round shot was then fird over their heads on which they all set off for the shore most stoutly.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
Clear weather, with the wind at S. W. The coast we passed. along that day was mostly level, having, but few signs of inhabitants: toward night several large canoes came off to us, filled with people, armed with a variety of weapons; they paddled round the ship, singing and dancing; sometimes grinning, and then threatening: we trafficked with them for some things; but they went off with some others, meaning to take an advantage of us. While they were parlying among themselves we fired several muskets at them, loaded with small shot, which they attempted to skreen themselves from with their ahavos, or cloaks. We fired again, and splintered one of their canoes, which seemed to alarm them much, and they paddled away from us as fast as possible, till they thought themselves out of our reach, and then they stopped and threatened us; but we fired a great gun, which so thoroughly disconcerted them, that they made the best of their way to the shore. These people were much like them we had seen heretofore, excepting that they were more tataowed: most of them had the figure of volutes on their lips, and several had their legs, thighs, and part of their bellies, marked. One woman, in particular, was very curiously tataowed. The tataow upon their faces was not done in spirals, but in different figures from what we had ever seen before.

24th November 1769

[Description of Firth of Thames, New Zealand]
P.M., Fresh Gales and dark, Cloudy, squally weather, with Thunder, Lightning, and rain. Winds from the North-West to the South-West, and this last carried us by 7 o'Clock without the North-West point of the River, but the weather being bad and having land on all sides of us, and a Dark night coming on, I thought it most adviseable to Tack and stretch in under ye Point where we Anchor'd in 19 fathoms. At 5 a.m. weighed and made Sail to the North-West under our Courses and double Reef'd Topsails, the wind being at South-West by West and West-South-West, a strong Gale and Squally blowing right off the land, which would not permit us to come near it, so that from the time of our getting under Sail until' Noon (during which time we ran 12 Leagues) we had but a slight and distant View of the Coast and was not able to distinguish wether the points we saw were parts of the Main or Islands laying before it, for we never once lost sight of the Main Land.* (* The Endeavour was now in Hauraki Gulf and had passed the harbour where Auckland now stands, which is hidden behind a number of islands)

At noon our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds South, being at this time not above 2 Miles from a Point of Land on the Main and 3 1/2 Leagues from a very high Island* (* Little Barrier Island, now (1892) about to be made a reserve to protect native fauna) which bore North-East by East of us; in this Situation had 26 fathoms Water. The farthest point we could see on the Main bore from us North-West, but we could see several small Islands laying to the Northward of that direction. The point of land we are now abreast off, I take to be the North-West Extremity of the River Thames, for I shall comprehend under that Name the Deep Bay we have been in for this week past, the North-East point of which is the Promontory we past on Saturday morning last, and which I have named Cape Colvill in honour of the Right hon'ble the Lord Colvill;* (* Cook had served under Rear Admiral Lord Colville in Newfoundland) Latitude 36 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude 184 degrees 27 minutes West. It rises directly from the Sea to a Considerable height, but what makes it most remarkable is a high Rock standing close to the pitch of the point, and from some points of view may be distinguished at a very great distance. From the South-West point of this Cape the river Extends itself in a direct line South by East, and is no where less than 3 Leagues broad until' you are 14 Leagues above the Cape, there it is at once Contracted to a Narrow stream. From this place it still continues the same South by East Course thro' a low flat Country or broad Valley that lies Parrallel with the Sea Coast, the End of which we could not see. The land on the East side of the Broadest part of this river is Tollerable high and hilly, that on the West side is rather low, but the whole is cover'd with woods and Verdure and looks to be pretty fertile, but we saw but a few small places that were Cultivated.

About the Entrance of the narrow part of the River the land is mostly Cover'd with Mangroves and other Shrubs, but farther in are immense woods of as stout lofty timber as is to be found perhaps in any other part of the world. In many places the woods grow close upon the very banks of the River, but where it does not the land is Marshey such as we find about the Thames in England. We saw poles stuck up in many places in the River to set nets for Catching of fish; from this we immagin'd that there must be plenty of fish, but of what sort we know not for we saw none. The Greatest Depth of Water we found was 26 fathoms and decreaseth pretty gradually as you run up to 1 1/2 and 1 fathom. In the mouth of the fresh-water Stream or narrow part is 3 and 4 fathoms, but before this are sand banks and large flatts; Yet, I believe, a Ship of a Moderate draught of Water may go a long way up this River with a flowing Tide, for I reckon that the Tides rise upon a perpendicular near 10 feet, and is high water at the full and Change of the Moon about 9 o'Clock. Six Leagues within Cape Colvill, under the Eastern Shore, are several small Islands, these Islands together with the Main seem'd to form some good Harbours.* (* Coromandel Harbour) Opposite to these Islands under the Western Shore lies some other Islands, and it appear'd very probable that these form'd some good Harbours likewise.* (* Auckland Harbour is one of them) But even supposing there were no Harbours about this River, it is good anchoring in every part of it where the depth of Water is Sufficient, being defended from the Sea by a Chain of Large and Small Islands which I have named Barrier Isles, lying across the Mouth of it extending themselves North-West and South-East 10 Leagues. The South end of these Islands lies North-East 4 1/2 Leagues from the North-West point of the River, which I have named point Rodney; it lies West-North-West 9 leagues from Cape Colvill, Latitude 36 degrees 15 minutes; Longitude 184 degrees 58 minutes West.

The Natives residing about this River do not appear to be very numerous considering the great Extent of Country; at least not many came off to the Ship at one Time, and as we were but little ashore ourselves we could not so well judge of their numbers. They are a Strong, well made, active People as any we have seen yet, and all of them Paint their Bodys with Red Oker and Oil from Head to foot, a thing that we have not seen before. Their Canoes are large, well built and Ornamented with Carved work in general as well as most we have seen. 

Joseph Banks Journal
Strong breeze off the land so we soon got clear of the bay. Land in the morn appeard unfruitfull, few or no houses were seen; in the Evening large sands which extended some way into the countrey in little hills as I have seen in England. At night we came to an anchor in a small open bay; our fishing lines were tried and we soon caught a large number of fish which were calld by the seamen Sea bream, as many as I beleive the ships company could eat in 2 days.

Sydney Parkinson Journal
We had a smart breeze from the S. W. and, failing along shore, passed between the main and a number of islands of several sizes. The appearance of the coast was very different at different places; well cloathed and verdant in some parts, and barren in others; but we saw no signs of inhabitants in any. We anchored in an open buy, and caught a great number of large fishes of the scienna or bream kind; we therefore named this Bream Bay; and the two extreme points which formed it, Bream Head and Bream Tail. Off this bay lies a parcel of recks, to which we gave the appellation of the Hen and Chickens.